November 21, 2006

A post in which I quite possibly could lose my down-home Southern food snob street rep...

I was reading this post by the ever-lovely Jordana Adams about Thanksgiving foods, and after I posted my comment I realized I might have outed myself as someone not truly Southern enough to be lecturing others on the evils of sugared cornbread.

It's that part where I talked about giblet gravy.

My mother-in-law, God love her, is a child of a huge Depression-era farm family in which all of women (and most of the men, for that matter) can cook so well that they could go pro and make a fortune. And that's not hype. They are just that good.

But there is one thing my mother-in-law makes that gives me a particularly queasy heaving sensation to my guts every year--and sometimes twice a year if she makes it for Christmas dinner. That being, giblet gravy.

NOW I LOVE GRAVY, don't get me wrong. But I have my own way of making it that uses just the broth or drippings from whatever meat might be cooked, and it does not include any of the vital organs. No spleens, hearts, pancreases, gizzards, livers, kidneys, lungs, gall bladders, ovaries, testes, or buttholes. My mother-in-law (whom I hasten to add I love as much as my own mother), happily chops all of these things up into the mix when she's making her giblet gravy (with the possible exception of buttholes) and THEN, to make it even more wretch-inducing, also boils and chops up some nice egg into the mixture.

The resultant thick gray-brown liquid with the ever so delicate sheen of turkey schmaltz on top and lumps of viscera and glistening boiled egg whites looks just like vomit to me. And I must say, nothing tastes quite like filter meats after they've been sauteed and then ladled over a big piece of stuffing--it tastes just as good as it looks.

However, I am saved by the fact that if I ever DID throw up in my plate, I would be quite confident no one would be able to tell there was anything amiss.

Reba has tried over the years to explain to her mother that I'm not particularly fond of giblet gravy--or at least the more innardy parts of it. SO, in an act of incredible love, my dear sweet mother-in-law will occasionally remember to fix me my own small portion that doesn't have offal chunks in it. She does this by fixing a big batch, then pouring some of the liquidish part off. Which means that although it is usually clot-free, it still has that unmistakable odor and flavor of a processing house floor.

Now, it is quite obvious that beggars can't be choosers, so I happily consume my garbage-flavored gravy with great gusto and thank my hostess profusely for her accomodating nature, but I must ask you all a question.

DO the rest of you like giblet gravy made the way my mother-in-law does it? And does the fact that it gives me the heaves mean that I am not sufficiently Southern to be upbraiding others for their sins against grits and biscuits?

I humbly await your verdict.

Posted by Terry Oglesby at November 21, 2006 01:50 PM
Comments

Well, yes, giblets go in the gravy if they're not already in the bread stuffing. BTW, gravy making is up to me or my dad, and I'm in charge of the whipped cream.

Posted by: steevil (Dr Weevil's bro Steve) at November 21, 2006 01:57 PM

See, I never knew giblet gravy was supposed to have whipped cream in it. That might be what's missing...

Posted by: Terry Oglesby at November 21, 2006 02:01 PM

I really wish you had not gone into the details of how it is made. I may never look a gravy bowl the same again.

Posted by: Larry Anderson at November 21, 2006 02:10 PM

I hear whipped cream makes it better.

Posted by: Terry Oglesby at November 21, 2006 02:15 PM

Speaking as a person of vaguely hearty eastern European hebraic stock [food pun!], I have to say you've added to an already too-long list of really, hideously disgusting foods. I will not go into detail, though the more daring and strong stomached of you will look up "petcha" on google.

I'm not a gravy person but Mrs. Skinny is, and she assures me the proper way to make gravy is to mix genuine, non-offal turkey bits and drippings with a bit of flour to thicken, and that's it.

Anything else is just recycling.

Posted by: skinnydan at November 21, 2006 02:37 PM

Southern or no, giblet gravy is nasty. I would always try to sift some chunk-free liquid off the side with a spoon to put on my dressing. To me, the eggs were the grossest part.

Posted by: skillzy at November 21, 2006 02:46 PM

Dan, you petcha I feesl a bit sick! You know, I understand the desire for folks to use everything, but some things are better used for fertilizer than food. I like your wife's gravy recipe, and that's the way I make it, too.

And I see Skillzy knows some of my people. And shares my aversion to their food habits.

Posted by: Terry Oglesby at November 21, 2006 02:51 PM

Ewwww,

I'm with Mrs. Skinny.

I make my gravy right in the pan I used to roast the bird. First I pour off the excess fat, add some water, a handful of flour and stir like mad with the pan on my cooktop on med. low.

It's brown, tasty and not (too) lumpy.

Posted by: Sarah G. at November 21, 2006 02:55 PM

Make your roux (i.e., Creole napalm) first, then slowly add water. Makes it a little easier to control the lumps that way.

Posted by: Terry Oglesby at November 21, 2006 03:02 PM

Never mind the whipped cream, but Sarah, if you mix the llour and cold water first, then add to the hot drippings, you'll have fewer lumps (yes, we weevils can be pedantic about food, too).

Posted by: steevil (Dr Weevil's bro Steve) at November 21, 2006 03:14 PM

Actually my lumps are from the pieces of bird and skin that got knocked into the drippings.

Posted by: Sarah G. at November 21, 2006 03:18 PM

I think it's time for Chef Tony and Kitchen Hand to weigh in on this. I've always thrown some gravy into the drippings and slowly browned that, then added water. Steevil mixes (in some magical way) flour and water and adds that to the hot oil. One of us is doing it wrong, and of course, I think it's not me!

Posted by: Terry Oglesby at November 21, 2006 03:18 PM

The magical way is a Tupperware shaker with vanes in it that break up the flour clumps. It also has a pour spout.

However, mixing flour into water with a fork works OK too.

Posted by: steevil (Dr Weevil's bro Steve) at November 21, 2006 03:21 PM

Now I am reallyglad I'm a northerner: we have NEVER made giblet gravy (the dog gets those inner parts that are stuck in the icky bag and stuck back in the inner parts of the turkey).

And Steevil is right - the Tupperware thingee is a godsend. Except for shaking the flour/water together first, I do the same thing as Sarah.

And I like the little bits of roasted goodness that show up in that kind of gravy.

Posted by: Diane at November 21, 2006 03:35 PM

I keep roux already made to make gravy, skim off most of the fat add wine reduce add in my roux heat then add the stock. I too BTW am not a fan of giblet & egg in my T-day fixxens. I make it for those that do want it, usually about a third go for it.

Posted by: Chef Tony at November 21, 2006 03:47 PM

I'm not a gravy eater. I like my taters with lots of butter. But I'm grateful that no one even tried to make me taste giblet gravy. Ugh.

Posted by: Jordana at November 21, 2006 04:26 PM

I've got to get me some of that Tupperware stuff...

Posted by: Terry Oglesby at November 21, 2006 04:26 PM

OH--AND ANOTHER THING!

Do you people pronounce "giblet" with a hard or soft G--"jiblet." I've always pronounced it as jiblet, but all of Reba's people pronounce it with a hard G.

Posted by: Terry Oglesby at November 21, 2006 04:32 PM

I can take the various body parts but never liked the egg.

Posted by: jim at November 21, 2006 05:14 PM

Don't ask me. I prefer fried turkey.

Posted by: Janis Gore at November 21, 2006 10:31 PM

I've always heard it as jiblet.

I grew up in North Alabama, but my mother is French-Canadian, small-town rural family. She made giblet gravy too, but she used hard boiled eggs that were broken up by the stirring.

Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours, Terry.

Posted by: mike hollihan at November 22, 2006 12:52 AM

Down here, giblet has a hard 'g' as in gibber plain.

Gravy? I'd happily take the giblets. It would be rich but even richer with the eggs. I suppose it's true Depression-era cooking, when meat was scarce, every part had to be used and there were chickens in the yard.

That was the case here. My mother learned from her mother, a farm girl, and was still valiantly cooking sheep's head soup into the '60s. We regularly ate lamb's brains and tongue sandwiches were a picnic favourite.

Posted by: kitchen hand at November 22, 2006 01:50 AM

And here I thought I was going to not be queasy this morning....

Posted by: Terry Oglesby at November 22, 2006 07:57 AM

I did warn you, Terry. I can't help what you choose to google.

Mrs. enjoys the lumps of turkey bits that end up in the gravy - at least the ones that make it that far. They have a habit of getting eaten prior to gravying. I have no idea if she adds water, but gravy isn't a big deal for me, so maybe she does.

Posted by: skinnydan at November 22, 2006 11:46 AM